Solovetsky fortress is situated in the small bay, protected by the islands; it was named Blagopoluchiya Bay (Prosperity bay). The panorama of the monastery is spread along the sea, displaying its most beautiful facades. If you go by sea the monastery is revealed step by step. Higher and higher the majestic cathedrals, fortress towers, coastal buildings rise above the ground. Those who have heard of Solovki cannot hide their excitement because of the view of “stone town” that can be seen from the sea. The wilderness of the surrounding scenery and its extensional farness of the living areas make this view even more amazing and bright.
The strongly marked individual features of the Solovetsky fortress make it extraordinary. The most interesting is the unusual building material, the natural granite boulders, from which the walls are made. Dubbed and smoothed by the centuries-long work of the ice stream and sea water, they not only had perfect constructive and antistrike features, but also gave the monument inimitable look. Different in sizes, configuration and colours “wild” boulders give a special weight and beauty to the architecture.
The silhouettes of towers and walls are tightly connected with the surrounding landscape, deprived of geometrical coldness, they reveal the elasticity of natural forms. Especially expressive are the towers: their outlines look alike but they make different impressions depending on the place of their location and the character of setting. Some has asymmetric design, others have strict geometrical forms. Some towers are slim, others are boxy and wide. The picturesque qualities of fortress are enriched with the lichen, covering the stones. Depending on the light and humidity it can have different shades – from greenish in wet weather to bright orange in dry one. Velvety green layer softens the cold structure of the stone, gives the construction an inimitable link with nature. But the fortress is not just stone lay-out. The inequalities of boulders are hidden with the rows of bricks and calcimine.
No Russian monastery knew such scope of building and construction works as Solovetsky monastery did. The explanation is in the safe historical situation that accompanies the first reforms of Ivan IV. The calmness of northern borders, the richness of the region, the independence in interior provided the growth of income to the monastery. Largely due to the glory of Zosimas and Sabbatius of Solovki numerous pilgrims came to the island and rich contributions were made. The considerable financial help came from the government, nobility and common people.
The crucial role in building the monastery was played by Father Superior Phillip. He was able to concentrate the humble at first household facilities to glorify the monastery. Journeys to the old Russian monasteries, meeting with famous people of the time, visits to Moscow and Novgorod promoted liberalization of Father Superior Phillip’s views. We should consider that some individual features of the monastery, especially its size, were formed because of his influence.
That is why in his buildings there are traces of Novgorod architectural school were combined with the latest inventions of Moscow architects. Phillip ruled the monastery for 18 years and he earned fame for tremendous stone building. If you enter the monastery from the grand Sacred gates (under the Church Over-the-gates), you can see a solid porch of Uspenskaya church on the left. The most interesting in the building is the interiors of Refectory. By its size the Refectory of Solovetsky monastery leave behind all the monastic refectories of XV-XVI centuries. Its area is about 483 square meters, that is only 13 square meters smaller than the famous Faceted Chamber of Moscow Cremlin. It astounds with the rare feeling of space, the scope of architectural division. The unknown XVII century author managed to express the inimitable image of Refectory in three words: “wonderful and lightful and large”.
Five high domes of the highest Spaso-Preobrazhensky cathedral of the monastery makes it closer to Moscow cathedrals, built in XVI-XVII centuries. It is interesting that Patriarch Nikon, who respected Father Superior Phillip and tried to imitate him in his service, imitated him in church-building. While constructing the Spaso-Preobrazhensky cathedral of Novo-Spassky monastery in Moscow (1647), Uspensky cathedral of Iversky Valdaysky monastery (1656), Krestovozdvizhensky cathedral on Kiy island (1661) he took as the basis the construction of Solovetsky Spaso-Preobrazhensky cathedral.
The fortress is impressive on the inside. Here the boulder massif is discontinued by the regular deep battle cameras. More light is the upper part of the walls where the space for maneuver is limited by brick parapet with supporting square columns. All this brings structural clarity and precision of rhythm to the façade composition.
Asymmetry of facades, rough surface of setting, thick boulder bases do not deprive the fortress of entirety, but add additional beauty specific of the hand-made building. Tight connections with Novgorod and Moscow allowed decorating the cathedrals with remarkable paintings and craftwork. Strong cultural tradition had fruitful influence on the further development of monastery ensemble, being the starting point for further generations of experts.
All in all there are 6 churches, bell tower, 2 chapels, 8 towers. The most impressive are the northern – Nikolskaya and Korozhnaya – towers. The general length of the Solovetskaya Fortress walls is 1200 m, they are 5-7 m wide at the bottom, up to 10 m high, and its towers are up to 17 m high.
The stone fortress of the monastery appeared later. The building continued for about 14 years with tremendous efforts of monks and workers. Only in 1596 the fortress started to operate. Like many other defensive constructions of the time, the fortress satisfied the latest achievements of fortification art. Its walls were made for the all-around defense, had forward tracing and two levels of action. The significantly advanced towers allowed firing flank and front lines.
Till the middle of XIX century Solovetsky fortress had never been attacked by foreign armies, but during the centuries its walls were a guaranty of untouchability of northern borders, and the body of troops of the monastery repeatedly defended mainland territories. From here Peter the Great led his ships to Swedish fortress Noteburg and occupied it. It was the first victory of Russian troops in the fight for entrance to Baltic Sea.
In 1854 the almost armless fortress rebuffed the attack of English squadron. The Solovetsky monastery was bombed for 9 hours without break. 1800 bombs and cannon balls were fired. After that the defenders were amazed by total absence of victims. “… Death was around everyone, and – the miracle of God! – Nobody was killed and even wounded; the seagull chicks that were in the monastery yard were safe either. The next day the enemies receded with shame. As the enemies say the number of missiles could destroy 6 cities, but not only small defenseless monastery, and they understood that was miraculous God’s patronage”.
Solovetsky heroic defense and patronage of Saints raised its weight among the faithful. Solovetsky monastery situated over the sea at the end of the earth always was the promise land. During 6 centuries it attracts hundreds of thousands of people, who come here to save their souls. This association is strengthened by the history: saint Zosimas saw the “divine shining” and the church in the air.
There are different reasons why people come here: because of the curiosity to see the majestic stone buildings and undisturbed northern nature. And people act wisely if they appreciate every minute of staying in holy places.
Sources:
“In the Father-ocean”. A guidebook to Solovetsky monastery and its sketes. Made by M.V. Osipenko.
“On Solovetsky islands”, V.V. Skopin.
