November

AND NOVEMBER IS A GOOD MONTH TOO! FISHING ON FIRST ICE.

What should you do when first part of vacations is left, having satiated you with suntan, exotica, animation, all-inclusive and dancing till morning. When you got tired of constant festival, bright colours and hot. When on return back you understand that you want to stay in native, natural atmosphere…

Decision came suddenly. My friend told me about her April vacations in eco-hotel “Letnaya Zolotitsa” and participation in “Tree Day”. While hearing to her, I understood that I want to go there too. It is the trip my soul demands. Only, this holiday is held on April, 22 for already 10 years. And now it is November. But why not? You can celebrate this holiday and plant a tree at any time. And at the same time to go fishing. And at the same time to improve health in atmosphere of restrained, rigorous Northern beauty after first exotic part of vacations.

By the way at that time I saw a plot on TV about Archangel kook, named Treeman. He feels himself as a tree, calls upon people to plant trees, organizes demonstrations in plantations protection, pastes his logotype all over, by the way logotype is not bad at all.

What is such a coincide of circumstances for? Everything is clear – I should reserve a room. I call to eco-hotel “Letnaya Zolotitsa” and… I am lucky, the room is reserved, there is a ticket for plane, and there are no obstacles for this sudden trip. I even don’t think about details of it - meeting with wild nature promises unexpectedness and I live by impressions and don’t like overorganization. Let it go in its way…

I shall not describe the way; I slept nearly all the way. From time to time looking over illuminator I saw only sea, lakes, rivers, marshes. The sea line was broken with plenty of bays, births; marshes impressed with their outlines and forms: rivers, winding, bending and returning back, drew real pictures on the peninsula territory. Very picturesque!

Having left the plane on airfield of Letnaya Zolotitsa village, I breathed in deeply. Because of silence I felt ringing in my ears, because of fresh air my head was going round and strange youthful wish to run appeared. I glanced round: small building of airport, soil airfield, village, terraced along river – everything breathed with patriarchal naivety. I was met by and on cross-country vehicle “Argo” we took across river and drove over pine forest about pair kilometers. Everything around looked very picturesque and temptingly. Eco-hotel appeared suddenly among trees and at once charmed with its sincerity. I was met cordially, accommodated comfortably, fed deliciously. There were not many guests – not a season.

After acquaintance all the talks turned to fishing. Having received clear and precise answers from Viktor – the connoisseur of local fishing, all thoughts concentrated at one idea – to catch lake whitefish on local river – Zolotitsa. By the way, on full-flowing and basin area Zolotitsa together with its tribulations is the largest river on the peninsula. The area of its basin makes nearly a quarter of the northern peninsula part territory (1150 km). I can also tell about ecological purity of it, because there are no polluters on the peninsula, its geographical net is completely isolated and the marshes on which the river flows serve as natural filters. That is why lake whitefish and salmon come here. And in old times here lived pearl fish, in soviet times it disappeared, but eco-hotel wants to bring this beauty back to local places.

While we were talking, sun set. In the evening on the White Sea coast there are no many entertainments: bathhouse, sport hall, massage, SPA, billiard… or you can read a book and organize chess, nards championship, or just walk along moon paths. For lovers of village colour – dancing in club over the river:) I spent time wonderfully, talking near the fireplace.

In the morning I got up and looked over the window: clear sky and light frost – the best weather for lake whitefish fishing. Having had a breakfast and prepared fishing tackles, we went fishing. The delight of Zolotitsa’s fishing is in short distance: you need to go not more than 1 kilometer. We went on ice carefully, the river covered with it not long ago. We were not afraid of falling down, because river was shallow in the place of fishing, but we didn’t want to bathe in it.

We fished lake whitefish in the village territory. So we were sitting: lonely village boy, elderly woman, and we – a group of five – 4 tourists and instructor. Passing by, local dwellers came closer and asked: “How much fish have you caught?” Usually fishermen saidthat not much, even if they had their pans full. Passers-by could come and look into pan, especially if they walked with children. They might ask some questions about fishing and then, on saying good-bye, went away. They spoke even with us – tourists. It didn’t matter that we were strangers, it mattered that we were with rods.

We didn’t wait long: first fish. It was lake whitefish, but not large. It was really not large – about 200 gr. We congratulated ourselves with start and continued fishing. First caught lake whitefish put us in the right mood, though it had been good before that. But now we received a sign: fishing would be successful, moreover the weather permitted. And the weather was really wonderful: bright sun, beautiful place. Automatically came a thought – fishing was a creative work. One should choose picturesque place, good bait for fish and not to make mistake when choosing tackles.

Again we waited, chatted, and shared impressions. One more fish! Within short period of time we caught about dozen and a half lake whitefish, some of them were about 0.5 kg. People say, earlier there was fish about 1.5 kg, but we didn’t catch such. But in any way, it was good for the 1st day of fishing. By the way Zolotitsa is a river where salmon come to spawn. I should come here for salmon fishing, then I’ll be able to master fishing by fly.

We returned to eco-hotel. The bathhouse was already heated, so happy we went to warm ourselves. Bathhouse, herbal tea, cold font, hot barrel with seaweeds, massage – how wonderful! And again endless talks about fishing, real fisherman never gets tired of them! We could have spent a night in the bathhouse, but we were in hurry for q supper. We awaited delicious meal, because on supper our just caught lake whitefish was to be prepared. Lake whitefish is delicious fish, noble and live only in pure water. And how it smells!

So passed day by day… We tried also lake fishing – it turned out, that each lake here had its own character. Each of them gives to people something special, that other water bodies can’t give. There are lakes of plenty, in their waters live nearly all type of fish and plants on their shores can be called relict. This word best of all can reflect all those beauties, which open to eyes of wayfarer come here. A trip to lake fishing I am planning fro next year.

And altogether on Onezhskiy peninsula there are about two thousands of lakes, and each of them is a separate body, living, developing and keeping its secrets. That is a whole program for the nearest future. And there is also fishing on the White Sea, on rivers and brooks; there are 164(!) of them in Onezhskoye Pomorye. How can I manage to find time for everything?!

The week flew unnoticed: fishing, walks, delicious meals, light exercises, bathhouse, SPA, massage, evening leisure with championships in table-games and billiard, reading books, talks ans sleep… We arrived here on Friday and again Friday came. We had good fishing and good rest. But we didn’t want to leave, therefore we stayed until Monday. Monday also came suddenly, but business called and willy-nilly we had to leave…

We went away looking fresher, good-rested and full of impressions. But not satiated:) By the way tree I managed to plant too.

Thank you eco-hotel «Letnaya Zolotitsa», thank you river Zolotitsa, thank you White Sea for such wonderful moments of life, for remarkable nature, and for everything alive that grows and lives there.

I will be certainly back, for sure!

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