IN SILENCE OF SUNSET. AT THE WORLD’S END.
Not long ago my friends invited me to visit Letnaya Zolotitsa. First I thought, what could I find interesting and what should I do there. The North though romantic, doesn’t make my soul tremble on hearing about it, some village near Solovki though ancient, but there is nothing outstanding in it. And in general, I don’t want to move further north than St-Petersburg…
But the trip made a great change in my notion of the world. Not a single skillfully made photo sawn in Internet, is able to reproduce unique charm of this place. The fascinations as it turned out is not so much in colours, though they are extraordinary, as in wonderful harmony, which is as though eradiated by all surrounding things, by sea, taiga, beach, stones.
And so, on warm September day, after a hot bathhouse, we make ourselves comfortable: some of us at tea-table, some – on a bench and the other – in cedar barrels, right on the shore of the White Sea. In the parts where centuries-old forests stand, where quick rapid rivers flow, where marvelous lakes hide in the heart of forest, in the parts where unfrightened birds live.
Enchanted, we can’t tear ourselves away from calm sea, edged with semicircular line of beach. Air is pierced with blue radiance. Sky is lightened in orange tints. Sea is streaked with mother-of-pearl colours. Forest stands like a dark-green wall. Only from time to time careful wave strikes stuck out from water stones – korgi, breaking extraordinary thoughtful silence.
Elena, having read much about use of seaweeds, grown in ecologically clean regions of the White Sea, tells us that seaweeds concentrate all active substances. They possess greater than all other beings of underwater kingdom, ability to extract from sea and accumulate useful substances. So, the concentration of magnesium in seaweeds exceeds the same in sea water 9-10 times, concentration of sulphur – 17 times, bromine – 13 times. One kilogram of seaweeds contains as much iodine as 100000 liters of seawater.
Here in eco-hotel you can absorb seaweeds through skin, mouth and nose – as seaweed baths, wrappings, food and smell. It is very good for health. And right now Lena, lying in barrel with fresh seaweeds, makes up for vitamin, macro- and microelements deficit. As it is well known, skin is the same living organ as heart, lungs or brains, only not inner.
While chatting, we decide to walk to the sea. Long sandy beach draws us. We go down to sandy abrupt slope. A bit further along seaside line up squat, rugged trees with small leaves and twisted trunks, on which dozens of growths and thickenings resemble rheumatic joints. Under them there are sandy dunes, decorated with picturesquely twisted juniper roots. Rhythm of trunks, roots, branches, moss- and voronika grown meadows on deserted seashore charms and bewitches.
And what an air! Inspiriting for creative work… The same as Repin, who for inspiration walked along juniper paths before work, we charge with curative air. It is known that juniper exudes into air phytoncids 6 times more than all other conifers and 15 times more than deciduous trees.
How can anybody believe that there are winds here sometimes and tender, warm sea can be terrible, wavy and disastrous! However, whether everything that surrounds us here doesn’t seem to be strange and improbable
The White Sea is unusual in general – you don’t realize at once that you are on sea. And it is really white – as though in milky haze. Either sea or lake. But empirically it is ascertained that water is salty, so it is sea. We walk and save left after falling tide jellyfish, which have a tint of Chechen glass – dark wine-coloured. We gather sea grape, called fucus and taste its yellowish-orange fruits, look at strange “hairy” stones and seaweeds, peacefully rocking in time with waves.
We take seat on stones, heated in the sun and hear to sea breathing. Its inhalations and exhalations are rises and falls of the tie. Daily 6-hours cycle: full falling tide –full water, there and back, there and back…
Suddenly a sea hare emerges from water and curiously, nearly without fear and even favorably looks at us; at a distance in evening sun rays glitters with its light back white seal…
We recall the day. Recall meadows and paths, sandy bank of river, whim twist of trees, taiga pine forest, its patriarchs having long moss beards, huge boulders, guarding stillness. The farther from coast the weaker winds and the higher, thicker and more massive forest. There are many relict trees in it, at the same time many wind-fallen trees – some trees have been lying for many years, they grew into earth and nearly hid in growth of cloudberries, bilberries, cowberries and whortleberries.
Northern berries… It is not surprising that this gift of nature is an integral part of the ration of those who lead healthy way of life. Berries are valuable not only because of their delicious taste, but also because of inestimable use they bring to health. The more berries you eat in summer, the healthier you will be in winter. Berry therapy!
Cloudberries, bilberries, cowberries, whortleberries and voronika grow not only in forest, near lakes and on marshes, but also on eco-hotel territory. Just imagine – solid carpet of blooming heather covered with berries. Small light-violet flowers create noble foundation in harmony of white, light-green, grey and orange moss coloured with berries.
Generosity of local nature is surprising. Sergey “calm hunting” fan, tells about mushrooms. Since childhood he considers mushrooms to be the best dish. Fried, marinated, in brine – whichever. And it is not truth, that mushrooms are “heavy” food. The main burden in mushroom dishes lies in… soured cream, butter and other cooking helpings and wrong combinations. When preparing mushrooms one should stick to main slogan – moderation. And then combination of vitamins, polysaccharides, cellulose and minerals contained in them contribute to keeping forms and even losing weight. It goes without saying that moderation is necessary in any consumption, though we often forget about it.
It is paradise for “calm hunting” fans. And what a paradise! Huge, tough boletuses, brown-cap boletuses and boletuses luteus. And they are not poisoned by bad ecology.
We are chatting for a long time. About everything: fishing, Russian North, Solovki, silence, unusual perception of time here…eternity… When staying alone with nature you especially clear realize meaning of life and your function in all variety of life.
Do you know why Letnaya Zolotitsa is not like any other place? It draws in. Here eternity is when you have only this day and no more...We see off sunsets and meet dawns. But there is no tomorrow for us: it cannot come until Eternity reigns We left this region vanquished by it, with heads full of impressions, full flashes, sun burnt and a bit half-wild. And some of us with seaweeds store (self gathered!).
I believe Elena, who says: "I can't live without White Sea!" It seems to me now I can't live without White Sea too.